Adjustable Weaving Bench in Black Walnut with Turquoise Inlay

This one took nearly a month to make because of time constraints and because of the turquoise inlays and tung oil and wax finish.  It is a special bench and I hope it goes to someone who will adore her..:)  Here she is....

A project just for me.

You know how it is when you get this great new tool but you only have time to use it for work...and then one day you just jump in and make that thing you've wanted since you first seen it.  You did all the research, you found the plans/files so you can make it anytime you have time to sit and get it all formatted and designed for your new tool but of course there is the "time" thing.  You've been drooling over it, dreaming about it and then...then... YOU MAKE TIME!  yes...I made time and this is what I made :)

New weaving tools fresh out of the shop.

So I've been busy with everyday order but when I get a chance to put in some design time for custom requests it can be super fun :)  Here are a few things I've been working on and a few requests.

So, for a custom request, this was fun to design as it took some math..:)  and well anything more than 1+1 poses problems for me :)  <<<not really :)  Picture courtesy of Feisty Handwovens (she has tons of ideas up her sleeve. :)

Then I finally finished the 10" rigid loom w/ 4 heddles and I sold both that I had complete.  I have two more to make and they are spoken for so I'll probably make time to cut the heddles for more...those heddles are extremely time consuming to cut as I have to sit and watch with my finger on the pause button.  I'll not go into details but I'll have to find the time to make more.  :)

Then there was my adjustable weaving bench...it's had a few updates in the last 12 months or so but the update I've been wanting for YEARS is finally a reality...  my benches now have a saddle seat.  I'm super excited about that! Oh did I mention that they will have a rocker option?  :)

Or that I'll be making them in new (to this bench) 

species of wood?  Or that I might do some inlays on them?  :)

Oh then there was a request for a custom shuttle with a 7.5 inch bobbin opening and this customer wanted the very rare exotic almond burl wood I had...  Yep she was willing to pay 95.00 for it.

and then she didn't like that it had knots and stress cracks and asked if I could try the other burl I had. to see if it will have knots and stress cracks ...:(  I should have asked if she even knew what burl was....  So I have a pretty shuttle that cost me 79.00 plus shipping and about 6 hours of work to make her pretty.....  Lesson learned.

Oh but my super slim lap loom/ rigid heddle loom shuttle also got a big brother.  :) The super slim super long is 21" long.  and would be perfect for a lap loom if purchased with a beater edge.  

There are several other updates and new items but I'll post about one more.  These are angel wings or lease stick holders...whatever you want to call them, they are now available in my shop.  :)

So there you have it...I do stay busy but I also work hard to find time for fun new tools to offer.  :)

Happy weaving!

Box Tape Loom now comes as a kit!

What’s included:

1 - 8epi Heddle
1 - sami sword shuttle
1 - metal apron rod
1 - Take up dowel
1 - warp dowel with apron rod pocket
2 - loom sides
1 - loom back
1 - loom bottom
2 – ratchets w/covers
2 - wood washers w/covers (other end of dowel covers)
2 - pawls w/ covers and short dowels
(there will be a total of 6 Covers, only 4 are shown in the image below)
Warping instructions
and a few patterns to get you started

What you will need:
Wood Glue
fine sand paper or steel wool
Black sharpie (to touch up any edges)
Your choice of finish
4 bar clamps or any method you choose to hold your loom together while it is drying.
No nails are required.

To begin building your tape loom you will want to check that you have all the parts mentioned above. Sand all parts to your satisfaction. Using a sharpie touch up any missing black color on the edges of all pieces. Next wipe down all the dust from all your wood parts. The more dust free your parts are the better your finish will be. Now using the finish of your choice put a finish on all parts. Be cautious of the edge tabs if you are using a thick finish. You want to be sure that your loom will still fit together even after you’ve put your finish on. I generally do not put a finish on the edges until the loom is completely assembled and the glue has dried. This is entirely up to you. Let your finish dry using the recommendation given for the finish you’ve chosen.

Using wood glue and a paint brush, brush glue on all the edges between the tabs (but not on the top edges of the tabs). Do not over glue.

Now you can assemble your loom. Place the loom bottom in front of you as seen in the image below (having help is good here) Place the back of the loom with the design facing out on the back side of the bottom (the short side with the tabs) as seen below.

Now place the left side of the loom onto the back and the bottom as shown below.

Place the warp rod in the top side holes making sure the apron rod pocket falling forward as you see in the image. (the cloth part of the warp rod should look as it does in the image below) Then add the take up dowel (this is tricky by yourself) and while holding all this in place add the right side of the loom and snug everything up.

Next clamp gently so you have free hands and put the heddle in place making sure there is no glue in the heddle slots or anywhere that the heddle may inadvertently get glued to the loom. One the heddle is in place adjust your clamping so that when you look on the inside of your loom there are no gaps and the heddle moves freely up and down.

This is how I clamp when I build a tape loom.

In the following images you will see clamps, however you will not start the instructions that follow for 24 hours so that you can remove the clamps.

Now that your loom is assembled and the glue is dry you will finish assembling your tape loom. The ratchets go on the left side of the loom and both ratchets will point in the same direction as you see in the image below. This is important so take a close look. Place a small amount of glue on the inside of the hole that is in the ratchets and then push them onto the dowels that are sticking out from the warp and take up dowels. Be very careful not to get too much glue onto your ratchets and accidentally glue them to the side of your loom. We just do not want the ratchets to move at all on the dowel, only the dowel itself should move once your ratchets are glued properly into place.

Next locate your to pawls and the little dowels that go with them. Take the little dowels out of the pawls and place a small dot on the cut side of the

Take the little dowels out of the pawls and place a small dot on the cut side of these dowels and place the cut side into the holes on the loom. Let these dry very well before proceeding to the next step. Very important….

Once the glue is dry you can proceed to placing the pawls onto the dowels. The top pawl faces this direction.

And the take up rod pawls faces this direction.

Once you’ve placed the pawls onto the little dowels place a very small amount of glue inside the little cover and push it onto the little dowel to cover the end so that the pawl will not fall off. Let this dry. You might want to check while it’s drying that you haven’t accidently glued the cover to the pawl itself by rotating it back and forth gently. Just be sure you haven’t put too much glue into the hole but enough so that the cover does not fall off. And finally glue the covers onto both ratchets and both wood washers as seen below.

Some fun Handywoman weaving tools

I've not posted in a while but here are a few things hot out of the workshop. 😏